Reference Images for Online Portrait Drawing I

May 15, 2019

Hello students,

Below you will find the reference photos for my online portrait drawing class! The first photo is a simplified tonal study of a skull. I would recommend downloading this image and then having a high-quality print made at Staples or Kohl’s to the approximate size of a real skull. Once you have the print, you can lay transparent vellum paper over it, and follow along with my anatomy lessons. The result of those lessons is displayed in the second photo.

The last reference photo can be used as a way of applying the anatomy covered in Lessons 3 and 4 to a real person. In my final two lessons, I explain this process quite thoroughly. Remember, everything that I teach is simply a way of introducing new concepts. Once you have some basic knowledge of facial anatomy and structure, you can apply this to your own drawings in a more intuitive way. This means that, after you have acquired some of the basic knowledge, you DO NOT need to follow a step by step process, but rather, let that knowledge guide your drawing approach. Although some of this may seem anal at first, learning this information can actually help to make the drawing experience more free and exciting.

For anyone who is interested in signing up for my Portrait Drawing I course, you can simply follow this link, http://www.riverafineartstudios.thinkific.com.
I hope to see you there!

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Reference Photo 1.

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Reference Photo 2.

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Reference Photo 3.

 

 


Supplies & Syllabus for Portrait Drawing II

April 10, 2019

Hello students,

For those of you who have signed up for my online portrait drawing II master class which will start on May 3rd 2019, below is a brief outline of what will be covered in each class as well as a list of materials. For those of you who are interested in signing up for this class, you will find a link on my website, http://www.riverafinearts.com under my “art classes” page.

First, I’d just like to express how truly thrilled I am to finally be offering one of the most extensive portrait drawing classes online. This class goes well beyond the basics. In addition to learning about the underlying anatomical structures which make up the human face, you will become more skilled in rendering subtle nuances of form, value and texture, which will give your portraits that incredibly life-like appearance that will leave your viewers in awe. If you took my portrait drawing I master class prior to this, you will already be familiar with a lot of the terminology discussed in this course.

1st Class

We will begin with a discussion of the materials, followed by a linear construct from a photograph of our portrait model using comparative measuring. The initial construction will focus on accurately deciphering large shapes with a series of vertical, horizontal and angled lines. This type of construction helps us to understand the width to height ratios of our subject as well as the big relationships. I will discuss and demonstrate this method in a real time video. As we begin to refine our contour lines, we will look for the curves and irregularities within the large forms. We will also tackle the linear construction of the interior forms (including shadow shapes) using the same method.

2nd Class

In the second class, we will discuss the importance of value as it relates to our subject.  I will then give a four part demonstration.

Part 1.

I will start off by discussing how to create an extended value scale. Working with different mediums allows us to increase our value range as each medium has it’s own inherent value.

Part 2.

Next, I will render a simple form with a combination of the different charcoals and pencils to push the light and dark value range further. I will explain ways to transition the mediums together to avoid choppiness or overly abrupt changes within the form description.

Part 3.

I will then create a “value study” of the model, focusing on the big shifts of light and dark, as well as the value emphasis which will strengthen the overall composition. This can often be done as a study for a larger image. The idea here, is to simplify the values into large graphic shapes like a polarized picture.

Part 4.

Finally, we will add a light layer of unified value to the actual drawing, creating a one to one ratio of light to dark. This will set up a strong foundation which we will refine and develop with additional layers.

3rd Class

Now we will begin to push our value range within a small area using the “window shading” technique. As I study my subject, I will explain how to work on layering darker values over the shadows, and gradually move towards the lights. This method will allow us to depict the subtleties of each form, and bring it close to completion before moving on to another area. I will break down the underlying anatomy and structure specific to each part with separate studies of the skull.

4th Class

I will continue to develop my shading with a narrated demonstration. My primary focus at this stage is to accentuate the forms and anatomical structures of the model’s features. In so doing, I will begin to transform the drawing into a life-like portrayal of human expression. I will also begin to talk more specifically about how certain muscles of the face form actual expressions.

5th Class

This is where all of the parts start coming together and the drawing slowly takes on a life of it’s own. As I continue to render the model’s features, I will be honing in on the subtleties which are specific to capturing her unique likeness.

6th Class

In this final class I will demonstrate how to push the “hyperrealism” to the next level by adding skin texture, individual strands of hair, etc. This is the layer where we transform the sculptural form which we’ve spent so many hours refining, and add, yet another layer of  textural detail. As we do this, we will also re-evaluate all of the parts, making sure that our values work as a whole.

(Below is a short clip of me demonstrating how to shade light values with a hard pencil – one of the many things which will be covered in this course.)

 

Recommended materials:

1.)  Drawing pencils (I recommend the Faber-Castell brand) in the following hardnesses;

(4H, 2H, B, 2B, 4B)

2.)  Nitram charcoal sticks (H, HB, B, 2B)

3.)  General’s charcoal pencils (HB, 2B, 4B)

4.)  Kneaded eraser

5.)  Double sided shaders in assorted sizes

6.)  A small, stiff bristled blending brush

7.)  Razor blades or x-acto knife

8.)  A sandpaper block as pictured above

9.)  BFK Rives white drawing paper (15 x 22)

10.) Strathmore Bristol medium texture drawing paper (11 x 14 or larger)

If you have any questions about the materials or anything else, don’t hesitate to email me at riverafinearts@gmail.com.


Commissioned Dog Portrait

December 13, 2018

Hello everyone,

Below is a video copied from my live facebook demo of myself drawing a commissioned dog portrait with charcoal and pastel on black-toned paper. This demo is about an hour long, and shows my process from the first few marks to the beginning of the tonal stage. Colors were then applied to the finished tonal drawing using chalk pastels off camera (photos of the finished result pictured below). Working with pastels this way is a lot like  painting indirectly over a grissaille which I discuss in the video.

I am currently working on putting together a series of online art classes for 2019 and was considering adding a “pastel pet portrait” class to the mix. If you are interested in that or any other topics, please let me know by adding your comments below. All of my online classes can be found on my website, http://www.riverafinearts.com. Thanks for your input and enjoy the video!

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“Molly” (completed) pastel & charcoal on black-toned paper

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(Detail)


Supplies & Syllabus for Online Portrait Painting Master Class

December 12, 2018

Hello students,

For those of you who have signed up for my online portrait painting master class which will start on June 17th 2019, below is a brief outline of what you can expect to learn each week as well a list of materials. For those of you who are interested in signing up for this class, you will find a link on my website, http://www.riverafinearts.com under my “art classes” page. I look forward to working with all of you soon!

First, I’d just like to express how truly thrilled I am to finally be offering one of the most extensive portrait painting classes online. This class goes well beyond the basics. In addition to learning about the underlying anatomical structures which make up the human face, you will become more skilled in rendering subtle nuances of form, color and texture, which will give your portraits that incredibly life-like appearance that will leave your viewers in awe. After 25 years of painting portraits, I’ve developed a systematic approach which begins with an accurate portrait drawing, followed by a limited color underpainting, and finishes with glazes (a technique practiced by the Old Masters which adds tremendous depth and luminosity to the final color).  Now I’ve condensed all of this incredible information into a 6 week course!  If you took my portrait drawing master class prior to this, you will already be familiar with a lot of the terminology discussed in this course.

1st Class

We will begin with a discussion of the materials, including panel/ground preparation. We will then create an accurately proportioned drawing from the live model using a variety of measuring techniques. This initial drawing will serve as the linear study to be transferred to the prepared painting surface using the cartoon method.  A series of additional pencil/charcoal studies will be made to emphasize the anatomical structures of various facial features.

2nd Class

A two part demonstration will be given on how to transfer the linear study to the panel and how to properly add opaque values to the underpainting. Once the linear study is transferred, the drawing may be refined in paint. Initial patterns of light and dark can be established with a single color using the “frottie” method.  Any additional drawing corrections can be made at this stage as well.

for the second part of the demo, a gradated value scale will be mixed on the palette using a limited number of pigments and then added over the frottie. This first opaque layer can be thought of as a “dead color” layer or a “closed grissaille”, and is used to establish the basic planar structures of the face. We will also take a closer look at the skeletal and muscular anatomy.

3rd Class

This is where we can begin to refine the big value patterns as well as the value transitions. As we carefully render the gradients of light to dark or dark to light value tones, we will begin to accentuate the plane changes of the face. This, in turn, will add  more three dimensiality to the inital description of form. At this stage, we can also start to analyze the relationships between local values and local colors.

4th Class

Okay, now comes the fun part!  This is where we take all of that wonderful under-structure, and sculptural form and bring it to life with the addition of  color. The first color pass is just a semi opaque layer of limited color to build upon the groundwork which we’ve already laid down. If we have a plan for applying the color, it can contribute to the nuance, mood and expression of the piece in a variety of different ways.

A demonstration will be given on setting up the palette with earth tones and prismatics as well as white and black, and then mixing up the dominant sections of the light, mid-tone and dark flesh tones that appear on the model. I will discuss tints, shades and tones. We will also examine ways to modify the chroma, value and hue by mixing in other colors. We will focus on matching the value of each additional section of color to the value of the underpainting. I will also discuss the fat over lean method and how to achieve this with the proper ratios of oil to spirits in each paint layer.

5th Class

Here is where we will begin to refine the color with an extended palette and add details such as highlights, surface textures, wrinkles, etc. This is the layer where the painting will really start to come to life! Highlights may be intentionally exaggerated at this stage in preparation for the final glazing layer. As we add these subtle details, we can also make minor adjustments to the value, chroma and/or hue to closely match the models complexion. We are going to have lots of fun with this! 

6th Class

Here is where we add the glazing, also known as the “finishing layer” which is an oiled down, semi-transparent wash which can alter the final color. It is literally like putting the icing on the cake. Through selective glazes, we can produce a radiant glow, add an overall atmospheric quality to the piece, or simply draw attention to an area (create a focal point) with an adjustment in value, chroma and/or hue. This is the moment where we step back and look over the whole image and decide if, how and where adjustments need to be made.

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Oil on wood (11 x 14)

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Oil on wood (detail)

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Oil on wood (detail)

RECOMMENDED MATERIALS LIST BELOW:

GENERAL PAINTING SUPPLIES:

Jars with lids for mediums
Paper towels or cloth rags
Soap to clean brushes (liquid dish soap works well)
Palette knife (these come in a variety of sizes and shapes; I prefer the 1/2 inch wide metal triangular-shaped ones with the wooden handle)
Art bin or tackle box to hold supplies
Fine sandpaper (I would get a range of grits such as a #220, #320 and possibly even a #600 for fine sanding the gesso/primer after applying it to the board)
Tracing paper (pad or roll)
A small paint roller with ultra-smooth foam rolls (at least 3)
Artists tape

RECOMMENDED OIL PAINTS:

Titanium White
Cadmium Yellow Light
Naples Yellow
Yellow Ochre
Raw Sienna
Cadmium Red Medium
Transparent Red Oxide
General Rose Madder or Quinacridone Rose
Thalo Blue
Ultramarine Blue
Viridian Green
Cobalt Violet
Raw Umber
Ivory Black

*Note:  Rembrandt, Williamsburg and Old Holland are professional-quality paint brands which I like to use, but somewhat pricey. Windsor & Newton is good choice too and less expansive than the others. Feel free to mix and match brand names.

RECOMMENDED BRUSHES:

Rounds # 1, 2, 3, 5
Flats # 3, 5
Filberts (one large, one small)
Liners (at least one # 000 for details)
A soft bristled blending brush, and/or fan brush (watercolor brushes are very soft and can be used with oil paint as well)
One very wide gesso brush

*Note:  Loew Cornell and Ebony Splendor are brands which I like, although with brushes it’s more about the feel. I try to select ones where the bristles don’t feel too stiff, yet still hold their shape when touched – particularly if they have a fine tip.  Avoid brushes which look frayed or that seem to have loose bristles.

RECOMMENDED MEDIUMS:

Cold Pressed linseed oil, Stand oil and turpentine (Windsor & Newton or Gamblin brand)

RECOMMENDED SUPPORT:

A 16 x 20 inch wooden panel (preferably oak or maple) primed or unprimed with a cradled back. If it is unprimed you will need to prime it using the procedure below. I will give a demo on how to do this when I discuss materials in week 1 but if you want to prepare this ahead you can follow the steps below. If bought all ready primed, then you can skip to the last step).

*Steps for priming an unprimed wood panel:

1.  Apply a thin coat of Acrylic gesso. Gesso can be thinned w/ water if necessary. Once completely dry, (it usually takes about an hour or two) sand with a #220 grit sandpaper to remove dust and air pockets.

2.  Apply a second coat in right angles to the first with the Acrylic gesso to ensure full coverage. The board should appear white without any visible streaks at this point. Let dry and sand again with the #220. If streaks are still present, apply a third coat with the Acrylic gesso.

3.  Apply a coat of oil primer (this will take longer to dry than the Acrylic gesso) with a gesso brush and finish with a roller to eliminate streaks and ridges. Let it dry overnight or longer. To test for dryness, use your palm or knuckle and lightly tap it to see if its still tacky. Usually 24 hours is a sufficient amount of time although in warmer temperatures, it may dry faster. Cooler temperatures will slow down drying time. Once dry, sand again with a fine grit paper (#220 grit if there is still some texture or #320 if it appears smooth).

4.  Apply another coat of primer. This will most likely be your final. If using a toned ground, you will mix your oil color directly into the primer until it reaches the desired tone and color prior to applying it to the board. If using an untoned ground, you will simply apply the primer following the same procedure(s) above. Once again, allow primer to dry overnight or longer. Once dry, finish with a final sanding. Usually I will sand with the #320 grit paper and then sand again with the #600 grit. For an ultra smooth surface, you can apply a little water to a soft rag and rub onto the board and then sand with a waterproof fine grit sandpaper such as the #600 grit.

RECOMMENDED PRIMERS:

Windsor & Newton oil primer
Acrylic Gesso

RECOMMENDED PALETTE

A gray-toned disposable paper palette (these look like pads with disposable sheets)

If you have any questions about the materials or anything else, don’t hesitate to email me at http://www.riverafinearts@gmail.com. I look forward to working with you soon!

 


Supplies & Syllabus for Online Portrait Drawing Master Class

November 28, 2018

Hello students,

For those of you who have signed up for my online portrait drawing master class, here is a brief outline of what you can expect to learn in each 1 hour segment, as well as a list of materials. For those of you who are interested in signing up for this class, you will find a link on my website, http://www.riverafinearts.com under my “art classes” page. I look forward to working with you soon!

1st Class

First I will explain and demonstrate how to use the various pencils, then I will discuss the basic planar structure of the head. By examining the head as a “box-like” form, we can easily observe the front, side, top and bottom planes. This is what I refer to as the geometric conceptualization which will enable you to draw a head from any angle whether it is imagined or directly observed. This is also a way of introducing the basic proportions which make up the human skull.

2nd Class

Here is where we will take a closer look at the skull using a replica paired with a live model. In observing the dominant planes which make up the skull, we will be able to recognize the boney landmarks present on any person’s face. We will discuss the proportional differences of facial features which can largely be determined by age, gender and ethnic backgrounds. While discussing proportional differences, we will also begin to apply observational measuring techniques using a live model.

3rd Class

We will continue to develop the construction of the model’s features, while paying close attention to the unique proportions of the skeletal and muscular forms. In my demo, I will begin to emphasize specific muscles which are most prevalent on the model, discussing their origin and insertion, as well as their function. Understanding the shapes and various movements of specific muscle groups, adds more clarity when rendering different facial expressions.

4th Class

This is where we will begin to apply value tone to the drawing to add more depth and further define the three dimensional volumes of the face. In my demo I will discuss ways to layer and blend your drawing material to create a full range of value tones.

5th Class

This is the final week where we will refine the subtleties of form and texture, giving the drawing a life-like quality.

I’m super excited about this class, are you!?

Below is my recommended materials list:

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1.)  Drawing pencils (I recommend the Faber-Castell brand) in the following hardnesses;

(4H, 2H, B, 2B)

2.)  Nitram charcoal sticks (HB, H, B, soft round)

3)  General’s charcoal pencils (2B, 4B)

4.)  Kneaded eraser

3.)  Double sided shaders as pictured above – in assorted sizes

4.).  A small chisel blender paint brush and a soft round paint brush

5.)  Razor blades or x-acto knife

6.)  A sandpaper block as pictured above

7.)  Strathmore Bristol medium texture drawing paper (11 x 14 or larger)

If you have any questions about the materials or anything else, don’t hesitate to email me at riverafinearts@gmail.com.

 


Sight-size vs. Comparative Measuring

October 12, 2018

Hello all,

I wanted to post a couple of videos that I made where I’m using two different measuring techniques to gauge my proportions. The first one is a sightsize technique, where the subject is drawn in the exact scale that I see it. This technique was a very common practice in the 19th Century French Academy, and is still used today in many private ateliers.  It is often introduced to students as a means of copying other master drawings in the foundational stages of their academic art education. Barque plates, (a series of drawings produced by Charles Bargue of plaster casts with strong geometric lines and dramatic shadow shapes) are commonly used in the practice of sight-size drawing.  This method allows the student to carefully observe an image which has all ready been reduced to a series of lines and shapes. In the act of copying other drawings, paired with sight-size measuring techniques, one begins to slowly train their eye to see the big geometric shapes first, before even thinking about rendering the subtleties of form. In the French Academy a student had to master this skill first, and only then would he or she advance to working from an actual plaster cast, and eventually the live model.

I use this method quite a bit in my teaching as it is easy to make direct comparisons of my subject to my drawing, however it has some disadvantages. Unless a student is sitting within a foot or so of their subject, the information they see will appear very small when transferring their measurements to their drawing pad. This presents problems when working from life, especially if working from a live portrait model. In a larger classroom, one would have to limit the number of students positioned around the model.  If each student for example, was sitting within a foot of the model, any more than two would end up crowding the space. Therefore in a classroom, this method works very well for copies of other drawings, but not so much for a live model, unless the classroom has the luxury of having a separate model for every two students.

The second video demonstrates a method of measuring called comparative measuring, which is much more practical in a real classroom setting.  This method allows the student to draw or paint their subject at any scale, regardless of their position in relationship to the subject.  I still recommend that my students try out both methods to understand the pros and cons of each.

With all that explained, I just wanted to add that, although sight-size and comparative measuring are both helpful techniques for gauging the width to height ratios of a subject, they are not full proof. Subtle alterations occur when applying construction lines and even if a line is off by a few millimeters, it can change the proportions of the subject. At the end of the day, one needs to be able to rely on their eye. In my own work, I myself use measuring to check my initial  judgements after I apply my big shapes, and I continue to use it periodically throughout the process to refine my details.

As a student, I relied on measuring much more than I do now. Over the years, I have developed my eye to see my proportions more accurately, so measuring is simply a tool to double check my assessments rather than a necessity.

However, when learning how to draw, it can be extremely valuable especially if proportion is something that you struggle with. As you practice the methods, you too will develop your perceptions. Eventually you will learn to recognize accurate proportions and measuring will become just a way of verifying your judgements.

Sight-Size Demo

Comparative Measuring Demo


A Portrait with Many Details (step by step)

September 24, 2018

Hello all,

I am often asked to post progress photos of my work.  This is something which fascinates me when studying other artists, as it provides insight into how they think about creating their subjects from start to finish.  I’ve documented a few of my previous pieces in order to show a specific technique.  “Passages” is one such piece, where I used a monochromatic underpainting with Viridian Green.  If you scroll down, posts of that can be found in this blog.  However, I realize that I’ve never really shown my approach to creating a work of art from the very beginning.  Part of my process, often includes a value study, then a tracing and then a linear transfer to the painting surface.  These crucial steps allow me to make as many important decisions and corrections as needed before I even start applying actual paint.  I especially like to use this method for pieces where there are many details.  It is also very helpful for planning out a more involved composition.  Rather then continuously changing elements once I’ve begun the painting, the following technique allows for little if any changes past the transfer stage.  Below is a detailed documentation of a large commission which I did for a Bucks County judge.  I’ve done my best to describe each step along with my problem solving techniques throughout the course of the 11 month journey that I spent working on this.

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After I had my initial photo shoot with the judge, I narrowed down my references from over 100 photos to roughly a dozen and proceeded to create the large value study pictured above, using charcoal and white chalk on gray toned paper.  This study was done in the same proportional scale as the painting was to be. The objective here was to decide upon all of the main compositional elements. The details of each individual part are not as big of a concern for me at this stage as much as the overall picture.  My primary concern is the positioning and size of the figure in relationship to the surrounding parts, as well as the value emphasis, lighting and how it reads as a whole. Once the study was complete, I showed my client to figure out whether any adjustments or additions needed to be made.

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The linear tracing is where most of the major adjustments occur. The photo above shows exactly how I do this.  In this case, I actually re-drew the judges’ face on a separate piece of paper (completely changing his hair and expression) then cut that image out and taped it over the original face.  Upon showing him the original study, he wasn’t particularly pleased with his expression, as he thought it made him look too stern. I also slimed down his chin and neck-line a bit. It is much easier to make these adjustments early on, rather than waiting until I’ve invested a lot of time into the painting.  I also adjusted the size of his hands (they seemed too small to me in the first study) and parts of his robe. The background detail was simplified into just a few lines.  There’s no need to draw out every single book.  Now it is ready to be transferred to the prepared wooden panel!

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The lines have now been traced onto my pre-primed, pre-toned wooden panel with Raw Umber.  I do this by coating the back of my tracing paper with the paint (without medium) using a relatively stiff bristled brush. I rub it into the paper evenly so that there are no ridges or clumps in the paint.  I will usually only rub it over the lines, (rather than the entire surface of the tracing paper) allowing the area of paint to be slightly broader than the original line. I then tape it to the panel, with the paint coated side against the panel and retrace it with a pen.  This leaves the impression of each line on the panel.  I then proceeded to apply a wash of the Raw Umber into the areas where there was shadow in the face and hands only.  This allows me to begin thinking about how I will eventually model my form with mixtures of opaque paint.  It also provides a warm undertone which will add optical color effects to the next layer of paint.  I continued making minor corrections at this point, such as raising the line of the left shoulder.

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Underpainting I

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Underpainting II

I’ve used many terms to describe the type of underpainting pictured above.  It is simply an opaque layer of light and dark values with only a slight hint of color. This layer can be done in gray tones only, or with some warm and cool variation, or it can be done with one dominant color, such as green, or brown in order to provide an overall hue which will be evident even in the final image.  For this piece I mixed up a series of values using white and black which gave me cool grays.  I then mixed up additional values using white and Raw Umber which gave me warm grays.  I like to introduce the play of warm and cool grays in the underpainting, as this creates the illusion of form, and it also begins to mimic the effects of light.  In this case, his face is being illuminated by a window light, which is cool, in contrast to the warm shadows.  Because there is limited color in this layer, I refer to this as the Dead Color layer.

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Overpainting I

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Overpainting II

This next layer is one which gives the painting life!  I refer to it as the first color pass.  I use a full palette here, and work out all of my subtle detail, including pores, wrinkles, freckles, etc.  The first color pass closely adheres to the value structure of the underpainting, and simply adds that life-like appearance.  I consider the underpainting or Dead Color layer to be the one which molds the basic form, much the way a sculptor might create a clay model to establish general planes and proportions which he would then continue to refine.  The addition of color takes all of that wonderful simplified sculptural form and breathes life into it, embellishing upon the details, and adding those subtle organic variations of pigment that make humans look human.  I also created a halo of the background colors around his head in order to start making some basic decisions about my color relationships.

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Moving away from the face now, I begin massing in large areas of color. My goal is to block in these areas rather quickly, so that I can get back to refining my detail.  The large patches of dark orange to the left of the judge are applied semi-transparently, allowing for vertical brush strokes to show.  This is intentional as it simulates the appearance of wood grain. I’ve also drawn an outline in paint of a small figurative statue which the judge decided to include.

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Here is a detail of the statue, which I actually ended up moving over, as I didn’t like how the bottom of it was cropped out by the sleeve of the judges’ robe.  The original outline is where I decided to add the brown shadow pictured above.  I’m slowly working out my values for the statue now with opaque mixtures, using only white, blue, brown and black paint. I also am continuing to work out the detail of the wood grain around the statue using the effect of both transparent washes, combined with carefully painted light and dark strokes.

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Here I continue to add background details, including the individual books on the book shelf.

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Slowly but surely the detail work continues. I’m now starting to define the folds in the robe.  I’m also making some pretty significant color adjustments.  The blues in the robe are strengthened in order to describe the cooler color effect of the window light, which makes more sense when paired with the flesh tones of the judges’ face.  I’ve also blocked in the back of the chair and painted in the detail of the small photo of the judge and his wife (detail included below) to the left side of his face.

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(Detail)

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Now I’m switching my focus to the lower half of the painting.  Don’t ask me about this detail!  It was important to the judge, so I went with it. The texture of fur can often be challenging.  I decided it would be best to underpaint this in raw umber (as seen on the dog’s face above) in order to establish all of the detail, and then, once dry, section glaze it with a mixture of Raw Sienna and Transparent Red Oxide, then rework the details back into the wet glaze with opaque paint (as seen on the left ear). That method worked well!  Below is the finished detail.

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(Detail)

In addition to painting the dog’s fur and shirt, I began to work out the reflection in the glass table.  The reflection was painted with a wet in wet technique, which is really the best way to capture the blurry effect.  If colors need to be adjusted, they can always be glazed over, however, in this case I carefully mixed my color variations so that I wouldn’t have to add any additional layers.  I’ll admit, I was starting to get antsy at this point as I had all ready invested about 8 months into this project. Below are some additional details of the reflection in the table.  Adding this part gave a lot of depth to the painting.

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(Detail)

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(Detail)

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Above is the completed painting!  I continued to refine my details with a combination of glazes and direct painting techniques. Upon delivery, the judge was quite pleased!  It’s great to know that this will now be hanging in the Bucks County Court House for all the public to see.

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Above: me (left) standing with the honorable judge Mellon (right) next to the official portrait painting which will hang permanently in the Bucks County Court House upon Mellon’s retirement.

In closing, I’d just like to offer my expertise to anyone interested.  For information on classes that I teach which cover all of the techniques described here, please check out my website, http://www.riverafinearts.com. Happy painting everyone!